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www.worldtempus.comFRÉDÉRIC JOUVENOT - Helios
Called Helios, in reference to the Greek God of sun, the sun-shaped hour display is unique. It is the first hour display over 24 hours that shows the sun’s path and the alternation of night and day.
Simple to read yet fitted with a complex mechanism, this piece in Frédéric Jouvenot’s Solar Deity collection has two faces, corresponding to the day and night cycles. For the first time in watchmaking history, a timepiece displays the time without conventional hands, numerals or disks.
Each hour is represented by a radioconcentric sunbeam, i.e. starting from the centre and radiating towards the edge of the dial. The twelve sunbeams show the path of the sun on the dial while indicating the hour to come and the past hour.
At mid-day, all the sunbeams are golden to represent daylight. At that precise moment, the dial represents the sun at its zenith. As time passes, the rays become black, one after another, clockwise; the dial darkens and announces oncoming night. Midnight is represented by twelve dark beams reflecting in the night. To symbolise the return to light, the sunbeams take turns to pivot again until mid-day, thus completing a full 24 hour cycle.
Telling the time remains instinctive. Each hour keeps its conventional position and the minutes are indicated by a central cartouche fitted with an index that completes a revolution on the fixed minute disc. The display maintains the conventional angular gap of a watch for instinctive reading.
The whole complication mechanism is enclosed in the central 12 mm diameter and 5 mm high case which contains no fewer than 100 parts, including 24 rubies which will activate the hour’s jumping beams.
Example: at 3.30 p.m., the first three beams are black and the minute indicator points to 6 o’clock, as on a conventional dial. The conventional angular gap between 3 o’clock and 30 minutes is thus maintained. Herein lies the feat accomplished by Frédéric Jouvenot; having maintained conventional reading of the dial with a revolutionary hour display system.
But the designer who has imagined, built in three dimensions and invented this watchmaking complication has also designed the case of his watch in partnership with his supplier. He wanted it to be very comfortable on the wrist, curving the horns as much as possible to follow the natural line of the wrist. He then lightened the design of the case by emptying the horns of the watch, giving it a very contemporary look.
The manual winding movement follows watchmaking tradition comprising a balance with screws, the angled and polished finishing of the bridges in “côtes de Genève”, the angled and polished steel pawl spring with honed finishing.
FJ-HELIOS-001-TITANIUM DLC
General information :
- New face with patent applied for, which indicates the passage of 24 hours with the day and night.
- Hour display without discs or hands, but 12 sunbeams with 12 jumping hours.
- Display of minutes by a disk turning in the center of the watch.
- Three-dimensional face with sunbeams black and pink gold coloured, dial in rhodium and black gold.
- Edition limited to 144 timepieces.
- Swiss made.
- Two-year warranty.
Details of the movement :
- Mechanical movement in exquisite workmanship with hours and minutes. Black gold balance with screws.
- Movement bridges decorated and engraved with côtes de Genève in rhodium plated.
- Angle polished on the dial and bridges.
- Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 21’600 A / h.
- A hundred components are found inside the heart of the sun, measuring 12mm in diameter and 5mm in height.
- Mechanical with manual winding.
- 42 rubies.
- Reserve power spring with 45 hours capacity.
Details of the casing :
- Case, crown, back in titanium with DLC treatment.
- Case waterproof to a depth of 50m.
- Sapphire glass cover for face and back with antireflective coating.
- Black alligator leather strap.
- Titanium folding clasp with DLC treatment.
- Case diameter : 44mm.
- Height of case : 13mm.
- Original presentation box specifically made for this timepiece. USB guarantee card, manual.
FJ-HELIOS-001-WHITE GOLD
General information :
- New face with patent applied for, which indicates the passage of 24 hours with the day and night.
- Hour display without discs or hands, but 12 sunbeams with 12 jumping hours.
- Display of minutes by a disk turning in the center of the watch.
- Three-dimensional face with sunbeams black and pink gold coloured, dial in rhodium and black gold.
- Edition limited to 144 timepieces.
- Swiss made.
- Two-year warranty.
Details of the movement :
- Mechanical movement in exquisite workmanship with hours and minutes. Black gold balance with screws.
- Movement bridges decorated and engraved with côtes de Genève in rhodium plated.
- Angle polished on the dial and bridges.
- Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 21’600 A / h.
- A hundred components are found inside the heart of the sun, measuring 12mm in diameter and 5mm in height.
- Mechanical with manual winding.
- 42 rubies.
- Reserve power spring with 45 hours capacity.
Details of the casing :
- Case, crown, back in white gold.
- Case waterproof to a depth of 50m.
- Sapphire glass cover for face and back with antireflective coating.
- Black alligator leather strap.
- White gold folding clasp.
- Case diameter : 44mm.
- Height of case : 13mm.
- Original presentation box specifically made for this timepiece. USB guarantee card, manual.
FJ-HELIOS-001-TITANIUM
General information :
- New face with patent applied for, which indicates the passage of 24 hours with the day and night.
- Hour display without discs or hands, but 12 sunbeams with 12 jumping hours.
- Display of minutes by a disk turning in the center of the watch.
- Three-dimensional face with sunbeams black and pink gold coloured, dial in rhodium and black gold.
- Edition limited to 144 timepieces.
- Swiss made.
- Two-year warranty.
Details of the movement :
- Mechanical movement in exquisite workmanship with hours and minutes. Black gold balance with screws.
- Movement bridges decorated and engraved with côtes de Genève in rhodium plated.
- Angle polished on the dial and bridges.
- Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 21’600 A / h.
- A hundred components are found inside the heart of the sun, measuring 12mm in diameter and 5mm in height.
- Mechanical with manual winding.
- 42 rubies.
- Reserve power spring with 45 hours capacity.
Details of the casing :
- Case, crown, back in titanium.
- Case waterproof to a depth of 50m.
- Sapphire glass cover for face and back with antireflective coating.
- Black alligator leather strap.
- Titanium folding clasp.
- Case diameter : 44mm.
- Height of case : 13mm.
- Original presentation box specifically made for this timepiece. USB guarantee card, manual.
FRÉDÉRIC JOUVENOT - Calibre FJ-ACE-001 automatic chronograph
Although a concept watch, the calibre FJ-ACE-001 automatic chronograph by Frédéric Jouvenot explores a new technical vision while respecting the purest tradition of the art of Haute Horlogerie. Innovative features and design; these considerations have given rise to the first integrated chronograph in history with a winding mechanism that is completely visible from the face side.
In fact, the addition of an automatic winding structure accompanied by a spur gearing kinematically connected to the ratchet contributed to this imbalance. The fact that this system was “superimposed on” and added to the back parts of the chronograph disfigured the chronograph typical of the old master watchmakers and limits the technical possibilities such as the addition of a split-second lever visible from the back of the watch, for example.
Moreover, the oscillatory mass conceals at least part of the view of the mechanism of the watch and of the parts that have been painstakingly finished by hand.
FJ-ACE-001-DIAMONDS
General information :
- Classic chronograph movement with column wheels.
- New exclusive automatic winding system and patented face.
- Chronograph with main dial, minute timers for 3 hours and small second timer for 9 hrs.
- Edition limited to 5 timepieces.
- Total setting weight of the watch : 8.46 carats
- Two-year warranty.
Details of the movement :
- The rotor perfectly intermeshes with the timers for reading the time.
- Screw-adjusted balance, frequency of 18’000 A / h.
- Power reserve for 50 hours.
- Rotor in 22K gold set by diamonds.
- Engraved chronographic bridge and balancing bridge in hand-finished black gold with côtes de Genève.
- Dial and movement bridges set by black and white diamonds.
Details of the casing :
- White gold bezel with baguette-cut diamond setting. Setting weight : 5.88 carats.
- Case, crown, back in 18K white or pink gold.
- Limited edition with number of timepiece engraved on back.
- Case waterproof to depth of 50m.
- Sapphire glass cover for face and back with antireflective coating.
- Black alligator leather strap with 18K gold buckle matching the case.
- Case diameter : 44mm.
- Height of case : 13mm.
- Original presentation box specifically made for this timepiece.USB guarantee card, manual.
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