If these SL fit into a certain logic the OP as been pursuing for quite a long time, the mind-blowing pieces of this event are the PAM424 and 425 (about 6500€).
Producing “Historical” Rad on a regular basis is a first in the history of this brand recently relocated to Neuchatel.
It is quite disconcerting, because after many lean years, the Officine presents four historical Rad simultaneously;
It seems that the commercial “cannibalization” of the PAM232 by the 249 in 2006-2007 does not frighten the OP at all.
Indeed, it is a surprising strategy. Scandalmongers would think that the PAM449 and 448 could serve as bait for the PAM424 and 425.
Using the SL as a booster for a catalog series , only the OP could have dared to do it ! « Memento audere semper » is more than ever a hot topic !
I will have the Paneristic fundamentalists howling. Nevertheless, I liked the PAM424.
Then, it is indeed a pure product of transgenesis by the Officine-Montsanto laboratory. Of course.
I will go even further; I find this watch more attractive and efficient than the PAM448.
Prior to the stoning or even the stake, let me argue:
I never liked the blued hands of the previous California…. Even if the PAM349 was superb, the titanium case spoiled the piece a bit.
Furthermore, my favorite Cali is unquestionably the PAM376 in white gold presented last year; the combo of the chocolate dial with gold hands provides the indicators “Cali” with the warmth they needed.
Now, with these gold hands, one finds a lot of this combo in the PAM424 (only two people in the back of the room may still be following ☺).
Finally, when the watch is on one’s wrist, the date that causes such a stir blends into the décor.
As for the logo, it is impossible to miss it; But finally I like this juxtaposition of vintage+modern, there is a touch of Californian bad taste to it, a watch that Mr. Lebowsky would not disavow.
Let’s talk about the other one, the PAM425, which killed the orders on the 373 at Panerai dealerships.
It is well designed, it is attractive, and it satisfies tremendous expectations from the Panerists.
However, the watch did cut little ice with me. When compared with the PAM449, it agonizingly suffers, go figure.
The final version will feature a pig in the dial, at the usual location.
To compensate for this omission on the prototype, our team of graphic artists hammered away, “nightanday”, to create a rendering conforming to the final product; it is Art (and Artfulness).
Now, let’s talk about a singularity, the PAM395, Radiomir, rose gold 45mm.
It belongs with this line of generational descent of dressed up Radiomir, and like all its precursors, it is almost a complete success. This PAM395 almost made it.
It is fitted with a P.2002, of course. But with a P.2002/10 featuring an extensive openwork.
Aesthetically, the result is excellent, even though the finishes are far from academic. It somewhat reminds us of the famous PAM348-350 Tourbillon.
In short, it is beautiful, a little messy and very original. A real achievement for a movement made in OP.
The watchcase is also a nice surprise, the thickness of the middle is moderate despite the height of the P.2002, thanks to a good work performed on the bezel, which features a somewhat « Top Hat » shape.
Panerai managed to improve the Rad 45mm cases just as the model is about to exit the series? The Rad 45mm’s swan song, so to speak…
The third surprise is the dial; indeed, it is iridescent, a style more commonly seen with Chopard or Piaget.
Finally, this highly dressed up dial is very coherent with the stated purpose of this watch.
The stumbling block is the linear Power reserve indicator. This military layout has nothing to do with a dressed up watch.
With this PAM395, Panerai almost managed to achieve the perfect dressed up PAM…
Last I'd widely speak about the PAM372, the 422, is less or more a 372 but nicer, cause of the great second and the saphire... In fact, I'd love this 422 a great achievement.
The fronter between the perfection and the heresy is thin. The 423 is undoubtly the biggest joke of this 2012, its a 372 with a face power reserve like in the old Betarini case, why not a great second? To finalize the joke we could hope a striped dial, like on the PAM028... Cheesy. That's barely work on the 424, absolutly not here.
The other main theme of this SIHH2012 is the ceramic, a technique the providers of the OP seem to have mastered at last (Still Bangerter?).
First reactions: astonishment, stupor, disappointment.
But why, oh why, “billions of bilious blue blistering barnacles of ten thousand thundering typhoons”, why is there no ceramic vintage Radiomir??
The big novelty is of course the PAM438 « Tuttonero ».
If the case is the same as the new « 1950 » 44mm, the watch is different in that it is all black, from the wristband entirely made of ceramic (and not ceramic + steel or rubber, as usual), to the bridges of the P.9000/B, also blackened;
However, the treatment of this caliber looks more like electroplating than the PVD featured by the PAM317.
The watch revisits the PAM359’s « instrument » dial, with aged indicators, and like the “automatic” inscription and other superfluous letterings dear to the Officine, the label “ceramic” is soon forgotten.
The result is really convincing thanks to the wristband, whose extreme lightness is puzzling (ceramic is about one third as dense as stainless steel). Only regret, the crystal is not domed.
It is such a shame, owing to the fact that ceramic is expensive to produce and that it would only have added an extra 1000€ to the current price, of about 9000€…
The other « ceramic » presented this year is the PAM396, which comes on the sly to stop the torrent of rumors and speculations that struck the Paneristosphere a few years ago.
At last, a 1950 47mm case made of ceramic! John Rambo’s watch finally embodied!
And like the Pre-V PVD (the other Panerai from the movie « John Rambo »), it will remain relatively unaffordable (95000€), because it is fitted with the fabulous and costly P.2005 movement.
A cost that is relative, since this Tourbillon features the best technicality/price ratio of the watchmaking industry.
Akin to the 438, the bridges seem to be electroplated.
The contrast between the brass wheels, the escapement block and the blackened finish is tremendously beautiful and efficient.
The dial features aged indicators on a black background, which is classic enough; one could talk at length about the “Tourbillon”, using literature, but Patek or Parmigiani do the same… Of course, the watch is fitted with a domed crystal.
It is one of the few clear rounds of this SIHH Panerai (yes, I like the rotary Tourbillon from Panerai).
Moreover, it opens a conjecture about a possible skeletonized version, like the PAM348-350.
The title of the article comes after “The Bomb”, because: the SIHH2011 was such a relief, such an explosion of post-neo-vintage creativity, after dreary years of Betarrinistic case, that the novelties from the Officine will never taste the same.
Obviously, the Paneristis’ high standards, irradiomired like a vintage dial by the presentation of 2011, underwent the same growth rate as the imperishable Hulk.
Hence, this SIHH almost entirely composed of Radiomir 47mm is a bit indigestible.
It feels as if one were hiding in a bunker after the Bomb, locked down with eight tons of canned foie gras, as an appetizer, main-course and dessert, for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
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